What I love about Andy’s fish is that it’s as much a joy to make as it is to serve and eat. There’s a steadiness to slicing fragrant leeks, garlic, lemon and clementine, a rhythm to grinding saffron.

The “Welcome to Indiana” sign isn’t just a piece of metal with some paint on it. It’s a beacon of hope, a symbol of relief, and quite possibly the most underrated landmark in the entire Hoosier State.